Final Score:
98
/100
Pièce de Résistance
I have attended several of the Meat & Cheese Show’s private dinners. In the past, I scored them on a 60-point scale, as I never considered their dinners within the realm of stereotypical “fine dining.” This mindset must change and evolve, especially when you have immense talent like Chef Joel Bein and the ye olde cheese wench, Chef Amanda Simcoe. Relegating “fine dining” to the idea of white tablecloths and black suits is archaic and narrow-minded. This idea puts a food critic in a box and, worse, puts the establishment in a box. This is the first full review I will do of the Meat & Cheese Show through a new lens. What better way to usher in a new perspective than with their dinner, “Champagne Wishes and Caviar Dreams,” a decadent, opulent offering fit for royalty yet accessible to Tulsans at a little shop in Oklahoma. Let’s eat.
The Meat & Cheese Show (MCS) is a specialty shop centered around gourmet foods, spices, wines, and cheeses. This unique setting offers more than just ordinary products; many of the items, wines, and cheeses that MCS carries come from Chef Joel Bein and Amanda Simcoe’s extensive travels throughout the United States and the world. From special wines from an obscure winery in Southern Italy to cheese straight from Greek islands, every item tells a story full of passion and personality. The ceilings are high, and music plays at an appropriate level in the background. The table is always set to impress with beauty and elegance, making the experience intimate and fun. One critique is that the chairs and the table itself do not match the overall heightened theme that is established for the dinners. Regardless, this should not detract from the show and creativity given the setting and space.
Every dinner at MCS goes beyond mere service; it’s an education and an invitation into the world of Chef Bein and Simcoe’s travels. Each ingredient used in their menus and every bottle of wine served tells a story, relayed with enthusiasm and love by the chefs. Despite being a small operation of two to three people, their personality and passion drive the narrative. Water glasses are kept full, each dish and wine are presented appropriately, and the pace is perfect for the evening. It’s an immersive experience that rivals other unique experiences, such as private wine dinners in Tulsa or the setting at the Living Kitchen Farm and Dairy experience in Depew, Oklahoma.
Caviar was the star of the evening, each dish adorned with a “bump” resting atop a mother of pearl spoon, a prelude to our culinary journey.
The first course, “Hot and Cold Egg,” featured a local yolk with vermouth crème fraîche, chive, and Kaluga caviar; a twist on the classic French dish “Œuf à la Coque au Caviar.” The egg yolk, poached to perfection, danced in harmony with the Kaluga. Delicate lemon notes opened each bite, followed by decadent bursts of briny caviar that popped in the mouth, concluding with the creamy richness of the yolk which brought a flawless balance in this exquisite interpretation.
The second course, a sweet corn panna cotta with dill, garlic blossoms, and salmon roe, transcended expectations. Visually stunning, it matched its beauty with a symphony of flavors. The intoxicating aroma of garlic blossom set the stage, where each spoonful began with the luxurious sweetness of cream corn custard, reminiscent of bisque in panna cotta form. Mid-bite, the salmon roe released its heavenly essence, transitioning to the lingering flavors of dill and garlic—a triumphant culmination of taste and texture.
Next, the halibut with asparagus, haricot vert, hollandaise, and classic sturgeon caviar stole the spotlight. Poached in butter and champagne, the halibut was a masterpiece of tenderness. Each forkful delivered delicate halibut notes, followed by the salty tang of sturgeon caviar and the elegant undertones of champagne and butter. Crisp-fried asparagus and haricot verts provided a delightful contrast, while the hollandaise sauce enveloped the palate in luxurious, eggy richness. This dish was pure sensory pleasure, perfectly executed, and on the verge of transcendence.
Then came the main course, the tenderloin; a dish that elevated Chef Bein and Simcoe to culinary deities. Comparable to the finest beef dishes across the United States, this masterpiece featured robuchon potato croquettes, gruyere espuma, and golden osetra caviar. The tenderloin, flawlessly rare, paired seamlessly with the smoky richness of gruyere. Each bite of the robuchon potato croquette revealed a crust that yielded velvety, buttery bliss, heightened by the complexity and saltiness of golden osetra caviar. Every mouthful was an exploration of perfection—a symphony of flavors that left us enthralled. Moans of pleasure escaped our lips as we savored every last morsel, forgetting decorum and licking the plate clean.
To conclude, the dessert “Roasted Strawberries” featured strawberries cooked for eight hours, bursting with intense flavor. Served with silky vanilla ice cream that complemented the strawberries perfectly, and a fried candied wonton adding a delightful crunch. The textural contrast between the wonton, ice cream, and strawberries played on the palate, while the intensity of the strawberry harmonized brilliantly with the cool ice cream. One critique of the dish is that the wonton was a little on the large side and slightly cumbersome.
Often, a tasting menu is like a symphony, where each dish harmonizes and works in perfect tandem with the others. When a note is off, it’s immediately noticeable—whether it’s a misplaced course, a slight flavor imbalance, or an execution error. These are critical considerations for any prix fixe dinner menu.
As I reflect on the experience, I searched for any imperfection, something that might have been merely good or very good. Yet, upon careful consideration, a moment of perfection was in every dish. I’ve always known them to be talented, consistently delivering excellent dinners. However, this offering surpassed excellence and entered a realm uncommon not just in Oklahoma, but across the Southwest.
It’s not that other dinners featured at MCS aren’t great—they are. This time, however, it felt like Chef Bein and Simcoe took bold risks, delivering more than just a meal. They brought wishes and dreams to life through a triumphant symphony of texture and taste, with Champagne Wishes and Caviar Dreams that are not eternal memories.
Atmosphere: 18/20; Great Atmosphere, unique, and wonderful.
Service: 20/20; An experience, an education, performed flawlessly by two people.
Food: 60/60; Each dish, each bump, each bite of food is excellent-to-transcendent as dreams and wishes come to life.
Overall: 98/100; pièce de résistance.
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98/100
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