Final Score:
53
/100
Excellent
The Eatery, also known as Three Kids and a Cake, is one of the premier restaurants in Bartlesville, Oklahoma. The Eatery is owned by Annie Saltsman, renowned for her delectable baked goods, including cakes, cookies, and now, ice cream. On the savory side, Chef Marjorie Hackler offers patrons various foods, including sandwiches, tacos, bowls, breakfast, and occasionally, private dinners where she showcases her culinary creativity. Until now, I had not had the opportunity to attend one of these prix fixe dinners.
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Course 1: Seared Sea Scallops, Citrus Carrot Puree, Crispy Carrot, English Peas, Sugar Snap Peas, Sweet Pea Velouté
This is a bright combination of land and sea. The scallop has a good sear, offering initial sweet salty notes of the sea, transposing into a bright citrus sweet combination of the carrot puree with end notes of sweet pea. The dish is well-balanced between sweet, savory, and salty, with a lingering taste of pea and scallop. One critique is that the scallop was slightly overcooked.
Course 2: Summer Corn Bisque with Charred Corn, Snow Crab, and Sunflower Greens
This soup is a revelation and borders on the transcendent. Once again, the land meets the sea, with initial rich, sweet butter notes of corn from the bisque being counterbalanced by the delicate salty combination of the snow crab. The charred corn added a wonderful texture, contrasting with the perfectly silky smooth corn bisque. The sunflower greens added a bright crispness to each spoonful they adorned.
Course 3: Roasted Golden Beet “Tartare” with Goat Cheese Espuma, Cherries, Fennel, Strawberry Vinaigrette, and Microgreens
Again, Chef Hackler’s theme is balance, this time between the earthy notes of the beet, bright sweet notes of cherry, and tangy end notes of strawberry and goat cheese tying the dish together. The firmness of the beet and Rainier cherry perfectly contrasts the tangy goat cheese espuma. The combination of sweet, salty, and savory is delightful.
Course 4: Kansas City Strip, Asparagus, Pomme Puree, Foie Gras Butter Sauce
This is a very good steak dish. The steak is cooked to a beautiful medium rare. The asparagus had a delightful crunch. The pomme puree was unctuous and simply divine. The foie gras butter added an incredibly rich butter umami flavor profile, perfectly complementing the beef. The combination of beef and potato tied together by the foie gras sauce curls the toes. One critique of the steak is that the Kansas City strip can have one side that is incredibly tough. The first slice of the strip was perfect; however, each subsequent slice had a gristle on the end of one side that created a tough crunch on some bites.
Course 5: Strawberry and Honey Ice Cream with a Waffle Cone, Fresh Berries, and Strawberry Coulis
This is a perfect summer dish. The combination of unctuous rich creamy ice cream perfectly balanced by the tangy coulis is a match made in heaven. The ice cream is exquisite, with a perfectly silky smooth texture counterbalanced by the crunch of the waffle cone. The ice cream coats your mouth in a layer of rich goodness that is simply divine.
My first private dinner by Chef Hackler was a very good one, showcasing her skills as one of Bartlesville’s culinary trinities. Overall, the menu was well thought out, showcasing Chef Hackler’s brilliant balance of flavor profiles. Salty, savory, sweet, umami, tangy—each dish was a juxtaposition of these flavor profiles, with highlights coming from the soup and dessert. There were some minor execution errors with the scallop and the Kansas City strip; however, these did not detract from the overall flavor profiles and meal. Chef Hackler’s flavor profiles and cooking style are uniquely her own as she brings her distinctive style of savory and sweet to Bartlesville. Chef Hackler’s dinner is on par with some of the wine dinners in Tulsa, and it is encouraging to know that Bartlesville’s food scene is in good hands with talents like Chef Hackler. I encourage you to give The Eatery a try and reach out to Chef Hackler or Annie Saltsman to set up your own private dinner. Until next time, friends—let’s eat.
Final score: 50/60 Excellent
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