Final Score:
93
/100
Excellent
The commencement of our 10-Michelin-Star journey embarks at John Shields’ renowned restaurant, Smyth, nestled in Chicago’s vibrant West Loop neighborhood. Smyth, a culinary masterpiece crafted by Executive Chef John Shields and his partner, Executive Pastry Chef Karen Shields, draws its inspiration from the rich farmlands of Smyth County, Virginia, where the duo spent five transformative years. Their menu mirrors profound influences from the ocean and undergoes constant refinement, akin to the natural process of evolution. To encapsulate the dining experience at Smyth, one must grasp the concept of evolution—a journey that tantalizes the senses and evolves the palate.
Our previous visit to Smyth took place in June of 2023, during which the restaurant proudly boasted two Michelin Stars. Since then, Smyth has ascended to culinary stardom, clinching the elusive third Michelin star, a feat achieved by only a select few establishments in Chicago—joining the ranks of the illustrious Alinea. Fresh off a two-hour flight from the heart of Oklahoma and brimming with an insatiable appetite, the time has come to revisit Smyth and rediscover the enchanting fusion of sea and land. Let the culinary adventure commence.
Smyth’s atmosphere exudes modern elegance with a timeless touch. It blends the charm of a country wood house with contemporary touches. The decor at Smyth showcases various shades and types of dark brown wood, accentuated by black elements. The high ceilings and well-spaced tables create an intimate setting that allows for an enjoyable experience. The background music, set at the right volume, perfectly complements the atmosphere and enhances moments of silence at the table. The lighting is set at an ideal level for the evening, creating a welcoming ambiance. The comfortable seats and the exquisite silverware, pottery plates, and bowls add a stunning touch, perfectly harmonizing with the overall aesthetic.
Much like our previous memorable visit, the service at Smyth remains the pièce de résistance. Upon our arrival, we were graciously greeted by Macullough, who promptly escorted us to our eagerly awaited table. Serving as our primary culinary compasses for the evening were Wendy and Travis—both epitomizing the perfect blend of charm, enthusiasm, and culinary expertise. Their unwavering dedication and passion guided us through the intricate flavors of both ocean and land, infusing each course with a narrative that elevated our dining experience to unparalleled heights.
Throughout the evening, additional personalities such as Jersen, Chef Anna, and the familiar face of Antel (our esteemed guide from our previous visit to Smyth in 2023) seamlessly supported Wendy and Travis in orchestrating our gastronomic journey. A delightful surprise came in the form of a visit from Smyth’s esteemed General Manager, Chris Gerber, who personally presented us with two exquisite dishes, further exemplifying the restaurant’s commitment to excellence.
The service at Smyth transcends mere attentiveness; it embodies a symphony of meticulous care and genuine hospitality. Our table remained pristine, our glasses brimmed with refreshing water, and every interaction was characterized by a delightful blend of professionalism and warmth. Each member of the Smyth team contributed to the tapestry of our culinary adventure, deserving nothing short of commendation and admiration for their remarkable talents and unwavering dedication to craft.
Course 1, the “Sapote Amazke,” or Fermented Japanese Rice Drink, presents a delightful aromatic concoction. Each sip delivers initial notes of sweet cherry, followed by a nuanced middle palate of subtle rice and spice, culminating in incredibly light end notes of rice and fermentation. The velvety consistency of each sip is enhanced by a blend of herbs, enveloping the senses with earthy and herbaceous aromas, thus elevating the drinking experience to a sensory delight, engaging taste, touch, sight, and smell.
Course 2, the “Sea Lettuce Tart,” a stunning representation of spring, dazzles the palate with its vibrant flavors. Each bite bursts with initial notes of peas, akin to popping caviar, followed by sweet acidity and a touch of salinity from the seaweed. The addition of flowers lends a subtle bitterness, adding layers of complexity to the dish.
Course 3, the “Croustade,” featuring truffle, poached egg, and what I can only assume is drops of heaven, transcends the ordinary. With each bite, the palate is treated to earthy truffle notes, creamy egg, and a seamless blend of textures. The contrast between the pastry and egg creates a divine culinary experience, evoking soft moans of euphoria from diners.
Course 4, “Crab Kani Custard,” with hazelnut oil, offers a sublime fusion of land and sea. Nutty goodness from the hazelnut oil melds seamlessly with the sweet, acidic, and briny flavors of the velvety custard, culminating in a symphony of taste sensations.
Course 5, “Spring Onion & Prawn” with a strawberry broth and flowers, boasts bold sweet acidic flavors, complemented by floral notes and subtle hints of strawberry. However, the flavor profile of the prawn gets somewhat lost amidst the powerful acidity of the broth, warranting a minor critique.
Course 6, “Caviar & Almond,” elevates dining to celestial heights with its exquisite combination of Golden Osetra Caviar and almond cream. Each bite unveils rich almond flavors, followed by succulent bursts of caviar, leaving lingering sweet notes of butter and cream—a glimpse into gastronomic perfection.
Moving to Course 7, “Avocado & Pistachio,” with an acidic vegetable slushie, offers a bold interplay of flavors, balancing sweet, acidic, and umami notes. The creamy avocado beautifully complements the vibrant flavors of the slushie, creating a harmonious dish.
Course 8, “Asparagus & Wild Rice,” celebrates the essence of spring with crisp asparagus and creamy rice sauce. The herbal accents add depth to each bite, reminiscent of the refreshing flavors of the pea tart, eliciting a sense of rejuvenation and delight.
Course 9, “Steamed Brook Trout,” with Kombu, Carolina gold rice, and a smoke-infused broth, presents perfectly poached fish with a texture akin to custard. The smoky sauce accentuates the delicate flavors of the fish, while Kombu adds a subtle sweet acidity, ensuring a harmonious balance of flavors.
In Course 10, “Elysian Fields Lamb & Malted Milk Bread,” each bite transports diners to heavenly realms with its divine combination of rare lamb, sweet bread, and tongue. The interplay of flavors, enhanced by a sweet sauce and whipped lamb butter, creates a euphoric dining experience, inducing toe-curling sensations of pure lamb heaven.
Course 11, “Pineapple & Goats Milk Yogurt,” intrigues the palate with tangy earthy flavors of goat’s milk yogurt, delicately balanced by sweet pineapple and cocoa nibs, offering a unique and delightful dessert experience. While it didn’t quite reach the transcendence of some other courses, its distinctive flavor profile added a refreshing contrast to the culinary journey.
Course 12, “Aged Banana and Black Walnut Truffle,” features ethereal banana custard with a fermented twist, complemented by sweet caramel and a touch of seaweed. While the walnut truffle delights with its luxurious chocolate exterior and creamy walnut-infused caramel interior, the addition of seaweed introduced an unexpected flavor that didn’t quite harmonize with the delicate banana custard, providing a minor critique amidst an otherwise exceptional dining experience.
For the grand finale, “Birds’ Nest” with candied quail eggs and a sunflower tart, offers a sinful indulgence. The caramel-filled quail eggs and nutty sunflower tart provide a symphony of flavors, reminiscent of the journey from the sea lettuce tart, bringing the culinary experience full circle.
Entering Smyth, one is met with the weight of expectation, heightened by the memory of last year’s exquisite tasting and the prestigious third Michelin star. Chef Shields’ culinary prowess shines brightly, seamlessly blending elements of land and sea into a symphony of flavors that unfold like movements in a grand symphony, with each course representing a different movement, harmonizing to create a mesmerizing culinary composition. From the delicate crescendo of the opening course to the lingering finale, every dish tells a story, engaging all the senses in a journey of discovery.
Chef Shields’ thematic approach, subtly weaving motifs of nuts and ocean throughout the menu, adds layers of complexity and depth to each dish. After two dining experiences at Smyth, it is evident that two overarching theme’s stand out. First, the use of seaweed in the overwhelming majority of dishes. Second, many of the dishes are created and intended for one bite or to be consumed in a particular way with little room for culinary exploration. This creates a particularly strict tasting menu where each bite is either successful or not. Like with many symphonies, there were moments where off notes were detected, particularly with the prawn course, the combination of crab and jackfruit, and certain dessert offerings. Despite these minor critiques, the culinary virtuosity displayed in dishes such as the transcendent Elysian Lamb, the ethereal Truffle Croustade, and the sublime Caviar & Almond leaves an indelible impression. These dishes presented incredible highs for the culinary symphony of the ocean and the land that rival other 3 Michelin Star Establishments.
Beyond the food, Smyth offers an atmosphere of refined elegance, complemented by attentive service that elevates the dining experience to new heights. With each dish, Chef Shields and his team invite guests to embark on a gastronomic journey into the unknown, where creativity knows no bounds and flavor reigns supreme.
Smyth delivers an unforgettable dining experience that transcends mere sustenance, offering a symphony of flavors, textures, and sensations that linger long after the final bite. It is a testament to Chef Shields’ mastery and innovation, beckoning connoisseurs of fine dining to indulge in the artistry of gastronomy at its finest.
Please note: These scores are considered and compared to the highest end of fine dining within the realm of Michelin and James Beard Award winners.
Atmosphere: 19/20; Excellent atmosphere, comfortable, relaxing.
Service: 19/20; While not at the peak of service, at a truly exceptional level. .
Food: 55/60; Some incredible transcendent highs, some average, and a few below average bites.
Overall: 93/100; Excellent
Stay connected through my social media channels and YouTube for the latest updates and reviews.
98/100
20/20
20/20
58/20
