Oriole Chicago, Tasting Menu (Contemporary American)
Final Score:
97
/100
Pièce de Résistance
Chef Sandoval and Oriole compose an eclectic serenade with notes and tones that bring brilliance to plate.
Final Score:
97
/100
Pièce de Résistance
I first heard of Oriole and Chef Noah Sandoval when they opened which resulted in Oriole earning 2 Michelin Stars in 2016. However, it wasn’t until 2024 that I finally made it to Oriole. By this time, I had accumulated over 30 Michelin stars in my culinary journeys, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. What I did know is that Oriole has been a staple in Chicago’s fine dining scene for almost a decade under Chef Sandoval’s extraordinary vision and talent.
Throughout the evening at Oriole, I learned that Chef Sandoval is a part-owner of the restaurant, and his influence is evident in the subtle and not-so-subtle nuances of the decor and theme. Chef Sandoval is not just a culinary artist; he is also musically inclined. One of the servers, Billy, told us that Chef Sandoval is an avid bass player, music lover, and sports fan. These touches of personal detail are beautiful because they reveal that incredible culinary talents like Chef Sandoval have a variety of passions and interests beyond just food. Understanding these details is supremely important in appreciating the full scope of the culinary experiences these restaurants offer.
Oriole was the third stop on our culinary journey. With two previous restaurants offering a symphony and a voyage as thematic overviews for their tasting menus, it was time to see what Oriole had to offer. Chef Sandoval provided us with a different theme for the evening: eclectic. Let’s eat.
Orioles’ atmosphere is a blend of relaxation, elegance, and vibrancy, beautifully presented in the restaurant’s design. Upon entering, you’re taken through an old elevator shaft, where the maître d’ opens the doors, transporting you into an ambiance reminiscent of the 1920s. The various shades of brown from the wood tones, soft lighting, and light-colored accents create a warm and inviting environment. The music, carefully selected by Chef Sandoval, plays at a perfect level for enjoyment without intruding on the evening’s conversation, with the entire album playing from beginning to end.
Oriole’s spacious setting creates an incredibly relaxing environment that feels elegant without being pretentious. For the evening, we were treated to the Chef’s Table, offering an incredible view of the kitchen where the chefs work their culinary magic. Each guest at Oriole is presented with a dish at the front of the kitchen, giving everyone a glimpse into Chef Sandoval’s world—a simply gorgeous touch. Above the kitchen is a montage of various pop cultural artworks, reflecting Chef Sandoval’s interests and passions, seamlessly matching the restaurant’s overall feel and tone. It is truly incredible.
One thing we noticed, in contrast to other kitchens, was that Chef Sandoval’s team appeared to be having fun, creating an almost family-like atmosphere. Chef Sandoval engaged in conversation with each sous chef and server throughout the evening, displaying smiles and teamwork instead of scowling or barking orders. It was a heartwarming display of camaraderie that made the dream work.
Service for the evening began with Raul at the bar, before transitioning to our main server, Billy. Billy was engaging, charismatic, attentive, and enthusiastic about his craft. He mentioned that he has been working at Oriole for three years and has a deep passion for the restaurant. This was evident in his vast knowledge of Oriole’s history and the exceptional style of service he provided.
Supporting Billy for the evening were Layton, Chef Connor, and a lovely young lady named Emily. Emily and Billy stood out in particular, as they engaged with our table and discussed the dishes in detail. One final treat was meeting Chef Sandoval at the end of the meal. This was wonderful, as he is down-to-earth and spoke with us about Chicago, some of his passions, and the menu.
Course 1: “Scallop with Fresno and Yuzu, Serrano Ham with Jasper Hills Blue Cheese and Quince, and Porcini Mushroom with Ricotta and Leek”
The first course is a trio of bites featuring raw scallop, aged Serrano ham, Jasper Hill blue cheese, quince paste, walnut, and truffle mushroom accoutrement. The raw scallop was divine, with sweet initial notes complemented by the bright, refreshing yuzu sauce, and ending with a hint of Fresno. The texture of the scallop was incredible. The second bite, the mushroom accoutrement, was a complete contrast to the scallop, with textures ranging from crunchy to soft and an earthy, woody flavor profile from the mushroom enhanced by the musky, nutty truffle. Rounding out the bites was the “ham and cheese sandwich,” which featured the salty Serrano ham perfectly paired with the funky blue cheese, ending with sweet notes of quince. The lingering walnut flavor was a beautiful accent. This trio was the perfect start to the evening.
Course 2: “Foie Gras” with Fraises des Bois and Anise Hyssop
This rendition of foie gras was borderline transcendent. Each bite featured rich, decadent initial notes of foie gras giving way to beautiful middle notes of anise and luscious strawberry, transitioning to end notes of buttery brioche. The dish had a beautifully subtle tang from tiny dollops of crème fraîche, and subtle tones of mint lingered on the palate. Each bite transported us to the halls of decadence, with soft moans of pure pleasure escaping our lips as the dance of strawberry and foie sang on our palates.
Course 3: “Golden Kaluga Caviar” with Snap Peas and Meyer Lemon
As we were still savoring the bite of foie gras, Chef Sandoval presented more incredible flavors, merging the land and sea. The golden caviar rested upon a decadent buttermilk foam that elegantly wrapped around our tongues. The initial sweet tang of the buttermilk gave way to the briny, nutty perfection of the caviar as it burst on the tongue. Beautiful end notes of sweet, refreshing peas came into play at the end of each bite, creating perfection on the palate. The dish was accompanied by a delicate Japanese milk bread, a beautiful addition.
Course 4: “Carabineros” with Virginia Ham and Thai Herbs
Next up was a beautiful seafood dish with multiple layers of complex flavors merging the land and sea. The shrimp was cooked to perfection, with a slightly firm texture. The salty ham’s flavors merged perfectly with the rich, unctuous flavor profile of the sea. The broth’s depth of flavors was incredible, yet it did not overpower the delicate flavor of the Carabineros shrimp.
Course 5: “Beet” with Sake Lees and Sea Buckthorn
This dish featured an initial delicate flavor of beet, giving way to a tangy, slightly fermented flavor from the sake merged with the buckthorn vinaigrette. The unique flavor profile was a new discovery for the palate, as each bite revealed various ingredients and combinations of flavors. The merging of the earthy beet with the tangy buckthorn was exquisite.
Course 6: “Sea Urchin” with Furikake and Egg
This dish was a fusion of flavor, texture, and complexity. The sweet, salty sea urchin merged perfectly with the creamy, delicate flavor of the egg. End notes of grain added a beautiful contrasting flavor, merging the land and sea. The spectrum of texture, from the soft sea urchin to the crunch of the grain, was simply incredible.
Course 7: “Trout” with Smoked Cabbage and Smoked Roe
With this dish, our flavor palates returned to the realm of transcendence. The trout’s initial smoky, delicate flavor profile transported us to the pearly gates. The cook on the trout was incredible, with a fantastic contrast of flavor from an incredible sear on the trout’s skin. The dish was perfectly balanced by a beurre blanc sauce, complementing the cold-smoked trout. The addition of cabbage, herbs, and greens added a refreshing element, culminating in a truly transcendent bite.
Course 8: “Capellini” with Truffle and Yeast
Moving on to the pasta course, this dish was one of the most unique takes on pasta I have encountered. Each bite was heavy and decadent, with initial notes of earthy mushroom giving way to middle notes of malty barley from the yeast and end notes of nutty Parmesan cheese. This dish punched the tongue with rich goodness. It was unapologetic in its spectrum of flavors, transporting the earth and nut profiles on perfectly cooked pasta. This was one of the most unique pasta dishes I have ever had, from concept to creation.
Course 9: “Squab” with Asparagus, and Ramp
The texture of the squab was borderline transcendent, cooked to a gorgeous medium-rare. The squab featured a lobe of fried foie gras, which, when paired with the squab, added its rich, earthy, slightly sweet flavor profile, making our eyes shoot open and eliciting soft moans from our mouths. The addition of asparagus and ramp perfectly balanced the richness of the foie and squab.
Palate Cleanser: “Rosemary” with Lemon and Olive Oil
This palate cleanser punched us in the face with the taste of Christmas. It awakened the palate, preparing it for dessert. The earthy pine flavor from the rosemary was counterbalanced by a tangy cream beneath the shaved ice.
Course 10: “Chocolate” with Lapsang Souchong and Black Currant
The first dessert was delicate and light. The flavor profile featured chocolate intermingled with char from the marshmallow shards, with a slight sweet tangy acidity from the black currant. The dish was not overly sweet and well-balanced. However, it lacked the creativity and refinement of the previous dishes.
Course 11: “Mignardises” featuring Canelé and Tartlette
For the finale, we were first presented with a tartelette featuring the same fraises des bois as the first dish. This bite was simply elegant and refreshing, with the wild strawberries’ flavor profile being incredible. The canelé added a beautiful contrast between the crunchy exterior and the soft interior. The canelé’s flavor was mild, with a tang coming from the cream on top.
Oriole offers a dining experience that seamlessly blends relaxation, elegance, and vibrant energy. Upon entering through an old elevator shaft, diners are transported into a 1920s-inspired atmosphere with rich wood tones, soft lighting, and light-colored accents. Chef Noah Sandoval’s personal touches are evident throughout, from the music playlist to the pop cultural artwork. The service is impeccable, with engaging and knowledgeable staff like Billy, Layton, Chef Connor, and Emily, who ensure every guest feels special. Meeting Chef Sandoval at the end of the meal added a personal and charming touch to the evening.
The food at Oriole is a symphony of flavors and textures, with several courses reaching transcendent or borderline transcendent heights. Highlights included the first course trio, the decadent foie gras, the elegant golden Kaluga caviar, the complex Carabineros shrimp, the delightful sea urchin, and the transcendent smoked trout. The capellini with truffle and yeast stood out for its rich, earthy flavors, while the squab with foie gras surpassed expectations. Although the chocolate dessert with Lapsang Souchong and black currant lacked some of the strengths found on other dishes, the meal ended on a high with the refreshing tartlette and canelé. Oriole delivers an extraordinary dining experience where exceptional service, inviting atmosphere, and transcendent dishes create unforgettable culinary magic. Chef Sandoval, keep rocking on!
Atmosphere: 20/20; Eclectic brilliance.
Service: 20/20; Elevated dining with a personalized touch.
Food: 58/60; Beautifully composed menu with transcendent highs and no noticeable lows make for an incredible experience.
Overall: 98/100; pièce de résistance.
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98/100
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58/20
