Final Score:
53
/100
Excellent
Tragedy struck at the end of 2023 when beloved Tulsa establishments Lowood and Hodges Bend were lost in a fire. The blaze also engulfed numerous homes as it spread to an apartment complex. But out of tragedy, growth emerges, much like the fabled phoenix rising from the ashes. Chef Trevor Tack, who makes a blazing return to the Tulsa culinary scene with LoFi, a new concept that merges pizza, drinks, and music. On the surface, this concept may seem familiar—many might hear “pizza” and immediately think of nearby favorites like Hideaway and Andolini’s. However, to lump LoFi in with these stereotypical pizza places would be a gross injustice, as it offers considerably more than any other pizza restaurant in Tulsa.
The atmosphere of LoFi exudes modern industrial vibes, with concrete floors giving way to cream-colored walls and wood trim. At the back of the restaurant, a bar and an open view of the kitchen allow patrons to witness the chefs working their magic. The lighting transitions from slightly dim in the back to more vibrant towards the front, primarily provided by a massive window. While there are a few smaller tables, the majority offer communal seating, accommodating up to eight guests. It’s worth noting that the ambiance can become lively and loud, especially when the restaurant is packed and music is playing in the background—a theme that LoFi embraces, complete with a DJ station. This energetic atmosphere adds to the overall experience, though it’s important to mention that the noise level can escalate when the restaurant reaches full capacity, particularly with the background music playing at a high decibel.
The service at LoFi is exceptional, led by the man with a million-dollar smile himself, Chef Tack. This personalized touch is truly special; not only does Chef Tack oversee the culinary magic in the kitchen, but he also takes the time to engage with each table personally. This level of care for patrons is a signature Chef Tack style. Our primary servers for the evening, Scott and John, provided excellent attention to our table, and we even had the opportunity to chat with owner Noah Bush.
Ultimately, taste reigns supreme. So, how does LoFi fare flavor-wise, particularly compared to longstanding pizza staples like Hideaway and Andolini’s? LoFi not only elevates the concept of a “pizza place” but also shatters the stereotypes associated with it. Hideaway and Andolini’s simply aren’t in the same league as LoFi. LoFi redefines what’s possible in the realm of pizza.
The first appetizer features Portuguese sardines served with cultured butter, black currant mustard, pickled onion, and crostini. Chef Tack’s brilliance shines through in the delicate, light flavor profile of the sardines, which are not overly salty or overly fishy. The combination of mustard and cultured butter creates a perfect complement to the sardines.
Next up is the stracciatella with warm bread, sunflower seeds, sour cherry gremolata, and garlic oil. This dish begins with creamy mozzarella curd, leading to a delightful sweet-sour combination from the cherry and subtle flavors of sunflower and warm bread that linger on the palate.
Our third appetizer is the slow-braised white beans with pecorino and garlic confit toast. The white beans offer a unique flavor profile, simultaneously delicate and herbaceous. The crostini provides a satisfying crunch and enhances the meaty flavor of the beans, resulting in a surprisingly light and well-balanced dish.
Moving on to the fourth appetizer, the charred broccolini with ajo blanco and caper raisin vinaigrette. This dish boasts a more distinct flavor profile, with tangy acidic notes from the vinaigrette taking the forefront. At the back end, there’s a beautiful nutty flavor reminiscent of peanuts or sesame, complementing the perfectly charred broccolini.
Next on the menu are the roasted carrots, beets, and fennel served with herbs, citrus vinaigrette, olives, and lemon dill ricotta. This dish offers a light and refreshing experience with a perfectly balanced flavor profile. The earthy tones of the beets and carrots harmonize beautifully with the creamy, delicate ricotta. Each bite concludes with delightful hints of herbs and dill.
The final appetizer is the boquerones with piquillo pepper and cilantro, aptly named “leche de tigre.” This stunning dish boasts a beautifully balanced, light, and vibrant flavor profile. The anchovies are impeccably prepared, not overly salty, and paired flawlessly with the piquillo pepper sauce. Each bite presents a symphony of salty, tangy, sweet, and acidic flavors.
Moving on to the first pizza, we were presented with the traditional margherita featuring house-pulled mozzarella, red sauce, basil, and olive oil. This pizza is a masterpiece of balance. Each bite begins with the vibrant freshness of tomatoes, transitions smoothly to the delicate mozzarella, and concludes with the herbal notes of basil. The sourdough crust adds a subtle tang, enhancing the overall vibrancy and refreshing quality of the pizza. Eating it evokes memories of spring, with the unmistakable taste of fresh tomatoes.
The second pie is the Sweet Fennel Sausage, featuring house-made pork sausage from Prairie Creek Pork, red sauce, red onion, ricotta dollops, and basil. This pizza is simply divine. Each bite begins with the luscious red sauce, followed by the creamy richness of the cheese. The magic unfolds when you taste the sausage—each bite releases a tangy burst of pure heaven. The sausage is remarkably fresh and delicately flavored, with a subtle afternote of fennel that beautifully accents each bite. Chef Tack once again showcases his brilliance in balance, ensuring that the fennel enhances rather than overwhelms the pizza.
The third pie was the McMinnville hot pie, featuring spicy red sauce, pepperoni, cherry peppers, hot honey, basil, and mozzarella. This pizza is a beautifully complex creation that offers a symphony of flavors. Sweet, salty, savory, and hot elements come together in perfect harmony, creating a sensory delight with each bite. The heat from the sauce tantalizes the lips and tongue without overpowering, allowing you to savor every heavenly bite.
Next up is the Alsatian, featuring a garlic béchamel base, potatoes, red onion, rosemary, pecorino romano, lemon cheek, and mozzarella. While each bite offers initial slightly sweet creamy notes from the béchamel, followed by the distinct flavor of potato, this pizza lacks the balance and unique flavor profiles of the others. It seems to be missing a cohesive narrative, with a beginning and middle but no concrete end. However, it has great potential. Pairing it with pancetta or Prairie Creek Farms bacon could elevate it, adding a salty punch to conclude the pizza experience.
The final pizza is the LDH, specifically requested for its heartfelt story. Though this story is not mine to share, the pizza itself is crafted with care and features castelvetrano olives, garlic confit, basil, lemon zest, and house-pulled mozzarella. This pizza is a haze of flavors. Beginning with the creamy mozzarella, the pizza unfolds to reveal sweet garlic balanced by tangy olives, with beautiful end notes of lemon. This elegant white pizza boasts a uniquely delicate flavor profile, reflecting the heart and soul put into its creation.
For dessert, we indulged in the banana panna cotta created by the one and only pastry chef Koda Potter. This delightful dish, previously featured at the Philbrook Grand Wine Tasting, stood out as my top bite of that event, and it certainly did not disappoint here. It embodies perfection. With its exquisite texture, tantalizing taste, and irresistible temptation, it leaves nothing to be desired. Beginning with the luscious notes of banana, it transitions seamlessly to creamy middle notes of caramel and chocolate, beautifully balanced by a tangy passion fruit gel. The addition of a chocolate crumb provides a delightful crunchy dimension to the dish. Without a doubt, this is the finest dessert I have ever had at any pizza place.
LoFi elevates and redefines the concept of a pizza restaurant. Each dish, each pizza, showcases Chef Tack’s talent and brilliance in achieving a harmonious balance of textures, tastes, and flavors. The menu he has crafted is vibrant, light, and refreshing. For those familiar with Chef Tack’s culinary prowess, the offerings at LoFi are distinctly and uniquely his own. However, one minor critique is that the menu and food quality far exceed the atmosphere. This is not to say that the atmosphere is lacking, as it perfectly aligns with the vision of LoFi. It’s just that the culinary experience transcends expectations set by the ambiance.
One thing is certain—LoFi redefines “pizza” for Tulsa and caters not only to pizza lovers but to food enthusiasts with its diverse offerings that cannot be found at other pizza establishments. I urge everyone to give LoFi a try and break free from our preconceived notions of what a “pizza place” should be. Allow Chef Tack to expand your culinary horizons and show you what it truly “can be.”
Overall: 53/60:
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