Final Score:
93
/100
Excellent
One of my earliest culinary adventures in Tulsa was at Boston Title and Abstract (BTA) in 2022. At the time, I was relatively new to the Tulsa food scene and was immediately enthralled by BTA’s charm, atmosphere, service, and food. BTA is where I first learned about the late great Chef Paul Wilson, and it was one of my first true “adventures” in terms of the totality of the dining experience. Nestled away in a dank alley, BTA’s charming and mosaic door leads you into an ode to the roaring ’20s with modern vibes. BTA is one of my highest-rated restaurants in Tulsa, originally earning a score of 93. My adventure to BTA this evening was not intended to be a review; rather, it was supposed to be a rendezvous that unfortunately fell through. However, life works in mysterious ways, and little did I know that tonight’s adventure to BTA would be nothing short of incredible. Let’s eat.
The lead-up to BTA is an adventure, to say the least. Nestled in a dank alleyway with no discernible restaurant slogan on the exterior door, the only hint of something magical down the alley is a hanging sign featuring a martini glass and a knife above a mosaic door. Upon opening the door, another door to the right indicates you’ve arrived at BTA. Descending a set of rather dingy stairs, you find yourself entering a whole new world of opulence, with heavy tones of ’20s prohibition and ’50s sexy burlesque. The decor is elegant and classy, with concrete and industrial themes giving way to gold and black tones under soft yellow lighting. The seats and tables are comfortable and welcoming. Though the noise level can sometimes feel a touch high, it is never overbearing. The atmosphere is as aesthetically pleasing as any higher-end restaurant Tulsa has to offer.
For this evening’s adventure, we were seated at the bar, and our service was provided by the drink master general, Scott. A charismatic, energetic, and incredibly talented individual, Scott was my culinary guide for the evening. He made the dining experience immensely enjoyable, even concocting an original libation perfect for a hummingbird, complete with a flower. Scott is a kindred spirit, enthusiastic about his craft.
The service was elevated further when I had the opportunity to speak with the executive chef, Roque Heidler. At the time, I did not know who Chef Heidler was, but one of the greatest things we can do as humans is embrace new experiences to dispel our ignorance. Chef Heidler has worked in multiple restaurants around and even been nominated for a James Beard Award. He is passionate about his craft and has added his unique style to BTA’s menu. Chef Heidler’s philosophy is to use the freshest ingredients in innovative ways to create works of culinary art. What’s more, Chef Heidler worked under Chef Wilson while Chef Wilson was at BTA. In a sense, Chef Wilson’s legacy continues to live on through Chef Heidler. The last two times I visited BTA, the menu remained relatively unchanged. However, under Chef Heidler’s care, I discovered that BTA would evolve right before my eyes.
The first course featured a fresh spring salad with various vegetables, beet paper, a tangy cream sauce, and a crumb. This salad achieved a beautiful balance of salty, tangy, and slightly bitter notes from the greens. The creamy dressing contrasted beautifully with the vibrant vegetables, and the crumb and beet paper provided unexpected lingering notes of beet. This was a flavor profile I wouldn’t typically associate with BTA, but it worked exceptionally well. The dish was both visually stunning and delicious.
The second course was foie gras with carrots prepared in three ways. I have had foie gras prepared countless times, including several times at BTA, but never with carrot and never as presented by Chef Heidler. The various renditions of carrots—puree, cake, and sauce—worked harmoniously. The sweetness and spice of the carrot components perfectly counterbalanced the rich, fatty perfection of the foie gras. The interplay of carrot and foie gras danced on my palate, with the cake and carrot topping adding a crunchy texture. The foie gras was cooked to perfection. Simply stunning.
Next up were lightly grilled vegetables and white bean hummus with flowers. This was one of the best renditions of hummus I have had. The vegetables were prepared in different ways, ranging from raw to slightly cooked to pickled. This fascinating combination made the dish intriguing. The hummus was creamy with an initial salty flavor profile that gave way to surprising end notes of bitterness from the flowers. A beautiful riff on a timeless classic.
Moving on, I was presented with BTA’s classic tartare with microgreens. BTA’s tartare is always exquisite. For this offering, I noticed refined adjustments to the plating and bread. The tartare was luscious and sexy, with a delicate flavor profile of creamy heaven. It was perfectly complemented by BTA’s grilled bread and pickled mushrooms, adding a beautiful combination of saltiness and char to each bite.
For the main course, a rack of lamb with an herbaceous sauce, turnips, and sugar snap peas was prepared. I have had lamb a few times this year, often overcooked. However, Chef Heidler ensured it was perfectly rare. The lamb was complemented by a cool sauce that accentuated its flavor. The crisp, slightly bitter snap peas added texture, and the turnip balls contributed an earthy note to each bite. Once again, this was a visually stunning dish, executed to perfection with unique and well-composed flavors.
For dessert, we had the classic BTA tray of desserts, featuring bread pudding, flan, ice cream, and a curd. This has been a staple on BTA’s menu for some time. While a fun dessert, certain components can lean on the very sweet side. However, Chef Heidler presented me with a “one-off” dessert inspired by the goddess of spring, Persephone. This delicate ice cream dish with a graham crumb, lemon curd, and flowers was a stunning ode to summer. The initial notes of creamy ice cream combined with the tangy, bright notes of lemon and citrus, with contrasting end notes of graham. The flowers added a final dimension of bitterness.
BTA is more than just a restaurant; it is a team of culinary savants. Bartender Chris added an aperitif of Pedro Ximenez Sherry and suggested pouring some over the ice cream dessert after a few bites. This addition, with its incredible notes of raisins, dates, figs, and lingering chocolate, turned the dessert into a spoonful of borderline transcendence. My goodness.
On my drive down to BTA, I was pondering whether or not I should make another culinary journey. To be honest, I got stood up on a date and wasn’t feeling the vibe of going out. However, persevering through the thoughts of allowing another to hijack my glory led to me re-exploring one of the best restaurants in Tulsa, now redefining itself with an incredible Chef. My interactions with Chef Heidler, Chris, manager Zack, and a lovely young professional golfer, Angelina, are all testaments that regardless of rejection or life’s happenings, surrounding yourself with good people, an amazing atmosphere, and good food can create a lasting memory. What Chef Heidler brings to BTA is a renewed passion and flavor profile that elevates the timeless classics already there and what’s more, he is starting to update a menu that, while tried-and-true, needed some new life injected into the vision and excellence that is BTA.
Atmosphere: 19/20; Wonderful atmosphere and very comfortable. Roaring 20’s with a modern flare.
Service: 19/20; Excellent service.
Food: 52/60; Evolution of excellence.
Overall: 91/100; I want more.
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