Baron's on 1st - Downtown, Tulsa
Final Score:
88
/100
Excellent
The roaring 20’s meets the 21st century with promises of brilliance and a dining experience unlike anything else in Tulsa.
Final Score:
88
/100
Excellent
Prior to the opening of Baron’s on 1st, Chef Justin Donaldson was not a familiar name to me. However, after conversations with Chef Amanda Jane Simcoe and writer Brian Schwartz, I discovered that Donaldson had previously worked at Polo Grill many years ago. Prior to Chef Donaldson’s time at Polo, he refined his culinary skills at James Beard and Michelin Star establishments across the United States, including cities such as Dallas, Chicago, Minneapolis, and New York City. Before landing at Baron’s, Chef Donaldson spent 9 years working for a capital equipment manufacturer for the food processing industry.
Baron’s on 1st draws inspiration from and pays homage to the oil barons of the 1920s, specifically the Phillips brothers. The theme of the restaurant embodies old-time opulence with modern twists, offering a menu that encompasses a variety of cuisines, including Tex-Mex, Japanese, and French influences. Baron’s prides itself on its high-quality dining experience, promising a lavish indulgence into extravagance. Baron’s is owned by Bret Chandler, who founded Rib Crib.
With such a rich culinary background, it’s an opportune moment to delve into Chef Donaldson’s interpretation of bringing the 1920s into the 2020s. Let’s embark on this journey and see how a century’s difference translates into the modern-day dining experience. Let’s eat.
The atmosphere at Baron’s exudes the ambiance of a 1920s upscale private hunting lodge infused with modern elements. Light-colored wooden flooring transitions seamlessly into dark walls and ceilings adorned with gold accents. Mounted animal trophies, a TV, and modern ball chandeliers enhance the aesthetic. It evokes a sense of versatility, inviting patrons to unwind with a drink at the lively bar after a long day or settle into a comfortable booth for a leisurely dinner. Additionally, Baron’s offers a seating area for guests to socialize before or after their meals.
The ambiance exudes elegance tailored for both blue-collar and well-to-do individuals alike. It’s worth noting that as the restaurant fills with conversation, the noise level can rise, necessitating a higher volume to match. While some may liken the atmosphere to a “macho steakhouse,” the impression I gathered leans more towards a masculine fusion of old-world charm and modern private hunting lodge aesthetics. One critique is that some seats have lower visibility due to the lighting structure.
The service this evening, provided by Alex and Laci, was impeccable. At Baron’s, the service not only matches but often exceeds the theme and tone set by the atmosphere. Our water glasses were consistently topped off, silverware replaced after each dish, and when we briefly left the table, the team refolded our napkins—testament to their attention to detail.
These small touches elevate the dining experience. What truly sets the service apart is the staff’s personability, deep knowledge of the food and establishment, and genuine enthusiasm for their craft. Alex, in particular, is a master of his craft, with an extensive understanding of the menu, effortless engagement with guests, genuine enthusiasm for food and wine, and attentive presence throughout the meal. His guidance as our culinary liaison was delightful.
Though I’m not a wine connoisseur, my brief interactions with Alex revealed his profound knowledge of wine, and I have no doubt he would expertly pair wines with each dish. Additionally, I had the pleasure of speaking briefly with Chef Donaldson, whose immense passion and pride in every dish he creates are evident.
This is a blind tasting, with all food selections left to the discretion of Alex and Chef Donaldson. This approach is crucial as it allows us to fully immerse ourselves in the theme and narrative Chef Donaldson intends to convey through his cuisine. While food critique can be subjective, relinquishing control and expectations lets us embrace the flavors, execution, and cohesion of each dish without being influenced by preconceived notions of what is traditionally considered “good” or “bad.”
Instead of focusing solely on personal preferences regarding specific ingredients, we can concentrate on the sensory experience and how each element contributes to the overall composition of the dish. This approach enables us to appreciate Chef Donaldson’s creative vision and culinary expertise, allowing us to engage with the meal in a more profound and meaningful way.
The first dish, Oysters Rockefeller with creamed spinach, pancetta, and breadcrumbs, sets a high standard for the meal. The oysters are impeccably cooked, each shell delivering a delightful combination of slightly sweet Pernod cream sauce, followed by the savory layers of bacon and breadcrumbs, and finishing with the distinctive flavors of the oyster itself. It’s a stellar start to the dining experience.
Moving on to the second dish, the Dumplings featuring prawns, chicken, lemongrass, and Dashi Ponzu, impress with their texture and flavor complexity. Each bite bursts with the pronounced notes of lemongrass, complemented by the citrusy tang of the ponzu, and gently transitions to the delicate flavors of chicken and subtle hints of prawn. While the dish excels in taste, it may feel slightly disconnected from the overall feel of the menu.
Next up are the Cornets, whimsical tortilla cones filled with Black Bean, Chicken Tinga, Salsa Roja, and Avocado Cotija. This playful dish delights with its tex-mex flavor profile, offering a lively burst of creamy avocado followed by the bold flavors of chicken tinga and beans, all encased in a crispy corn tortilla shell. It’s a fun and flavorful addition to the menu and much like the dumplings, something unexpected.
Transitioning to the salad course, the Spring Garden salad is nothing short of a revelation. Visually stunning and bursting with vibrant flavors, each bite offers a harmonious blend of tangy vinaigrette, creamy avocado, and crisp vegetables, culminating in a delightful crunch and floral notes that dance on the palate. Little hints of what I think is blue cheese add a gorgeous tang to some bites. It’s a true celebration of springtime freshness and each bite is wonderful.
The Velvety Celery Root soup with roasted miyatake, sorrel, and yucca is a culinary masterpiece. The creamy broth, poured atop the mushrooms and root vegetables, delivers a divine sensory experience. From the buttery creaminess of the soup to the earthy tones of the mushrooms, every spoonful is a revelation, bordering on transcendent. The soup is toe curling and delicious.
For the first entrée, the Duck Confit with Frisée, Lemon Thyme, and Poached Pear impresses with its perfectly cooked duck and exquisite flavor profile. The tender duck meat, accompanied by bitter notes from the frisée and lemon thyme, is beautifully balanced by the sweetness of the poached pear. While the dish could benefit from a unifying element to tie together the duck and salad components, the addition of the sweet gel and pear elevates the overall flavor profile.
The second entrée, Halibut with Green Curry Cauliflower, Squash, and Toasted Coconut foam, presents a stunning fusion of flavors. The green curry, paired with the nutty and salty coconut foam, creates a harmonious blend of savory and sweet notes that tantalize the palate. While the choice of halibut complements the dish well, slight overcooking in parts led to some textural inconsistencies, transitioning from flaky to chewy. Nevertheless, the unique flavor profile of this dish is a standout experience and a testament to Chef Donaldson’s incredible flavor palate and understanding of technique. Please note: I returned to Baron’s for a second tasting and had this dish again. It was executed to perfection with a flawless cook.
Next, the Zucchini Pav with Cashew Granola, Spinach, and Basil showcases a beautiful composition of flavors, textures, and visual appeal. This vegan masterpiece features delicate flavor profiles of spinach and zucchini, enhanced by the crunch and nuttiness of the cashew granola. The addition of what appears to be caviar-esque purple grain adds an intriguing element, while the tangy sauce provides a perfect balance of acidity. This dish leaves a lasting impression and is something I would eagerly order again.
The final entrée, Beef Short Rib with Tamarind, War Eagle Grits, and Root Vegetables, is a true showstopper and a gastronomic triumph. The beef short rib is tender, succulent, and braised to perfection, with each bite offering a symphony of flavors. The initial tangy notes of tamarind give way to rich beefiness, subtly accented by hints of cloves. Paired with impeccably cooked grits and subtly smoked root vegetables, this dish is a culinary sensation that embodies elegance and indulgence.
For dessert, we were treated to a Coconut Cream Pie from the local bakery, Patisserie By Sheila Anne, and a classic Crème Brûlée. The Crème Brûlée boasts an eggy flavor profile, complemented by the bittersweet caramelized sugar topping. However, the cook in the middle did not set properly and it was a liquid consistency. Meanwhile, the Coconut Cream Pie offers a mild coconut flavor. However it had an abundance of crust and a considerable amount of cream. Cutting through the crust left our forks and knives clanging on the dish.
Baron’s on 1st leaves a lasting impression with its fusion of old-world decor and modern flair, coupled with Chef Donaldson’s innovative and visually stunning dishes. This is made all the more impressive given Baron’s newness to Tulsa’s food scene. While there are certainly some critiques to be made, they do not overshadow the overall dining experience. With strong marks for flavor, presentation, and attentive service, Baron’s offers its patrons an atmosphere of opulence and elegance reminiscent of the oil barons of yesteryears.
Whether it’s enjoying an after-work cocktail, a romantic evening for two, or a gathering of friends or business partners, Baron’s provides a setting where guests can be wined and dined with excellence. Despite being relatively new, having only opened for a few weeks, Chef Donaldson has already showcased his culinary prowess and vision.
In learning about Chef Donaldson, his passion, his brilliance, and his flavor palate, I do believe that he has the ability to change the dining scene not only of Tulsa, but all of Oklahoma and beyond. Baron’s is in its infancy, and with growth could very well obtain a 100/100 under Chef Donaldson’s care.
I highly recommend giving Baron’s a try. It’s an invitation to indulge in something sophisticated and fun. Whether you bring a friend, a loved one, or a business partner, immerse yourself in the grandeur of Chef Donaldson’s vision as he brings the old into 2024.
Service: 20/20; Alex and the team at Baron’s is nothing short of perfection.
Atmosphere: 18/20; Accomplishes what it sets out to be. Can get a little noisy. Very Niche.
Food: 50/60; Some excellent dishes with some bordering on transcendent. Some critiques in regards to dessert.
Overall: 88/100; The roaring ’20s meet the 21st century in a successful fashion, bringing back the good ole’ boys club that welcomes all.
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