Alinea: Chicago, Tasting Experience 2024 (Molecular Gastronomy)
Final Score:
95
/100
Pièce de Résistance
Allow your senses to fly into outer space, float away and discover where the impossible becomes possible through culinary genius.
Final Score:
95
/100
Pièce de Résistance
Alinea holds a special place in my heart. Over a decade, through four separate dining experiences, I have witnessed Alinea repeatedly dazzle the senses, transcending what the eyes see, the ears hear, and the mind believes possible with food. Led by the man, the myth, the legend, Chef Grant Achatz, Alinea has stood as a culinary beacon in the world of Molecular Gastronomy for over twenty years. This marks my first return to Alinea after a full year of restaurant reviews and critiques. Having dined at other notable Michelin-starred establishments in Chicago, including Smyth, Ever, and Oriole, it is now time to experience food in a completely different way at Alinea.
Writing a review for Alinea presents the greatest challenge. Each dish is an avant-garde creation in the culinary world, reflecting Chef Achatz’s innovative approach to food. Alinea, derived from the Latin symbol indicating the indent for a new paragraph, perfectly represents the essence of each dish, each taste, and each bite – a new beginning. Many have witnessed the story of Alinea’s executive chef, Grant Achatz, on Netflix’s “Chef’s Table.”
Alinea has achieved tremendous success, including being named the Best Restaurant in the World by Elite Traveler, the Best Restaurant in North America by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and the Best Restaurant in the U.S. by Gourmet and Business Insider. It is one of only 14 restaurants in the U.S. to earn the coveted Michelin 3-Star rating. Additionally, it has won multiple James Beard Awards, including Outstanding Restaurant in the U.S., Outstanding Service in the U.S., and Outstanding Chef in the U.S.
Please note: I lack the refined palate and expertise to analyze all the flavors and intricacies that Chef Achatz brings to his patrons. It is incredibly challenging to find the right adjectives and convey my thoughts and feelings adequately about my experience at Alinea. The dining experience is truly otherworldly, and I apologize in advance for not providing an in-depth explanation of each bite in terms of flavor profiles.
Alinea’s exterior may seem unassuming, lacking even a name on the door, but any reservations about its appearance are instantly dispelled upon entering. The atmosphere inside exudes refinement and elegance. As you step into the Gallery area, you are enveloped in a dimly lit ambiance with themes of steampunk, gothic undertones, and victorian vibes. Copper, fire, and art adorn the interior as you’re seated at a communal table.
The first tier of the atmosphere fosters a sense of communal dining, where you and fellow patrons are encouraged to partake in something truly special. After the initial communal course, a delightful surprise awaits as you are invited into the kitchen for the second course. This glimpse into Chef Achatz’s magical world is a genuine treat. The kitchen itself is a work of art, elegantly busy yet somehow welcoming.
Upon leaving the kitchen, the space where you began has transformed entirely into individual tables. These tables, crafted from metal, possess an elegant refinement. The lighting shifts throughout the experience, periodically changing to impact the mood and tone of each dish.
As the experience nears its conclusion, the atmosphere undergoes yet another transformation. The gallery is infused with a mist carrying the scent of tea, setting the stage for a captivating show during the final course where black panels are removed from the ceiling and used as placemats for the final dessert. Alinea’s atmosphere is truly incomparable, engaging all the senses and crafting an unforgettable play on culinary artistry.
This time, there were some notable critiques regarding the atmosphere. First, we noticed that the chairs at the communal table had paint peeling off the gray leather, revealing black underneath. This was noticeable on the armrests of two chairs. Additionally, one of the hand-blown dinnerware pieces, meant to mimic a sea urchin, was missing a spine. Although this could have been intentional, it did detract from the overall perfection expected at Alinea.
The service at Alinea is exceptional. Upon our arrival, a young lady graciously greeted us at the door, promptly opening it and welcoming us inside. Around the corner, we were met by Shaina, the lovely young lady who went above and beyond last year by noticing one of our party members had a support cane for visual impairments and promptly made a menu for us in braille. It was so refreshing to see her again.
Our main guide for the culinary journey was Rosabella, an absolutely delightful and enthusiastic ambassador to Alinea. She radiated enthusiasm and elegance throughout the evening, seamlessly providing upper-echelon service. Rosabella was supported by Matteau—not the Italian Matteau from our 2023 experience, but the “French” Matteau. Familiar faces like Rizz and Rebecca also made appearances, which made this dining experience all the more
Course 1: “Communal” featuring Strawberry, Tomato, and English Muffin
The first course introduced us to a communal seating experience with a romantic scene fusing elegant Old English tones with modern Gothic accents. Copper and fire provided a thematic atmosphere for the experience. A gorgeous painted plate featured a thick, intense tomato gazpacho with a light, refreshing radish salad on the side, balancing the tomato. A rose contained a handcrafted strawberry that was indescribable and distinctly not entirely a strawberry. The rift on an English muffin contained various flavor profiles that were wonderful. The carrot, filled with a strawberry puree, was crisp and delicious.
Course 2: “King Crab with Yellow on Mellow”
For the second course, we transitioned to the kitchen. This course took us to the heart of Alinea, where we were treated to several bites featuring cornbread, Tabasco, celery, and a popcorn Bloody Mary. A gorgeous bite of cornbread and king crab with a tomato gel created a beautiful sweet-salty flavor combination, enhanced by the addition of popcorn. The popcorn was simply incredible, with the essence of Bloody Mary, hints of tomato, and celery fused into it, adding sweet, salty, and savory sensations to the palate. The different layers, textures, and presentation of corn through the soft bread and popcorn danced on the palate. What an innovative dish.
Upon our return from the kitchen, the communal dining area was transformed into separate tables with decadent silver, and touches of old tarnished boxes that would eventually contain new delights.
Course 3: “Osetra” with Sweet Corn, Honey, Oloroso, Cantaloupe, Smoked Yolk, Chamomile, and Mussels**
This course had two presentations. The first, a sweet corn custard adorned with decadent osetra, was contained in a textured dish with bumps resembling caviar itself. Each heavenly pearl burst in our mouths, releasing its salty, sultry, and sinfully succulent flavor. The caviar rested upon a custard with sweet and salty undertones, creating an umami flavor profile that transcended expectations. Every bite sent waves of euphoria through our bodies, as our palates reached for the stars.
The second rendition featured a guitar pick with a beautiful dollop of caviar. Sadly, I did not get to taste this, but my sister said it was incredible. The dish it rested upon was gorgeous but deceptive, as once you finished the caviar pick, you would turn the dish over to enjoy the smoked yolk infused with chamomile. I did try this custard, and its flavor combination was odd and did not work in harmony like the previous dishes.
Course 4: “Explosion”
A staple at Alinea, this dish featured black truffle, romaine, and Parmesan, presenting a pasta filled with the liquid of the gods, to be savored in one bite. As you bit into it, an eruption of orgasmic truffle flavor engulfed your taste buds, creating an unparalleled experience. Your toes curled, your eyes rolled back in your head, and the delicate yet flavorful broth worked its magic in your mouth. The divine endnote of truffle was so exceptional that you refrained from sipping any liquid before the next dish, relishing the flavor for as long as possible.
Course 5: “Hot Potato”
This playful and whimsical dish featured a cold potato, black truffle, and Parmesan. It arrived with a pin, and upon pulling it out, we were instructed to consume the entire dish in a single bite. Euphoric seems fitting, as it left us in a state of bliss. The potato offered a rich and delicate flavor that harmonized with the unctuous sauce and aromatic truffle, leaving a lingering sensation on our tongues even after the bite was finished. This is one of the best “oyster” sliders I have ever had.
Course 6: “Aubergine”
Featuring eggplant, rye, butter, and herbs, Chef Achatz once again demonstrated brilliance. This rift on “toast and sardines” tricked the senses into thinking there was fish featured in the dish. Instead, eggplant was transformed into sardines and worked in perfect harmony with beautifully rendered toast and butter with hints of Parmesan at the back end.
Course 7: “Honey Mango”
This dish featured mango, Holland pork belly, spiny lobster, uni, and macadamia. It was an explosion of flavors that hit all the flavor profiles at the same time and yet somehow highlighted each individually as you went through the dish. Salty, sweet, savory, umami, tangy, and sour all came through in brilliant ways. This dish weaved a balance of taste and texture that tantalized the palate. Honey and mango sang on the tongue as a potato twill added more contrast to each bite.
Course 8: “Blancmange”
Featuring poulet, almond, fernet, and floral di Sicilia, this dish featured delicate flavors of almond and earth with hints of vanilla that worked in beautiful harmony with the delicate flavor profile of chicken. This dish reminded me of “white noise,” as each bite was delicate and perfectly balanced.
Course 9: “Lamb”
Featuring Niçoise olive, blood orange, and eucalyptus, this dish was a rift on barbecue and it was unique. The sauce had notes of molasses and orange (I think), and the lamb had a beautiful smoke. The crumb was delicate, and its overall flavor profile was well balanced. It is bold to venture into the world of barbecue, and coming from Oklahoma, it was unique; however, it was not my favorite dish.
Course 10: “Eucalyptus”
A palate cleanser featuring olive brine and chewy orange, this dish was pungent and strong with heavy notes of olive that gave way to middle notes of orange and spicy, peppery end notes of eucalyptus. This palate cleanser was stringent and very strong. It is definitely not for the faint of heart.
Course 11: “Bubble Gum”
A staple on the Alinea menu, this dish featured Thai long peppercorn, hibiscus, and crème fraîche. This whimsical dish brought a festive and enjoyable experience. The boba added an intriguing texture to the bite, further enhancing the overall enjoyment. It was akin to a cherry cordial fused with endnotes of familiar childhood bubblegum.
Course 12: “Flotteur Vache Noire”
Featuring black truffle ice cream, root beer, and cherruffle, this dish was transcendent and took the idea of a rootbeer float to the heights of the culinary gods. The fusion of truffle and ice cream was otherworldly as the familiar sassafras root flavor beautifully balanced and teased the palate. The more you sipped, the more you wanted. Greed took over as your tongue screamed for this newly discovered flavor to never end, and when it did, withdrawal sank in.
Course 13: “Balloon”
An iconic feature of Alinea, this dish consisted of green apple taffy infused with helium. Hold on tightly to prevent the wonder from floating away. This dish brought laughter and delight to the entire table, with the sticky and delicious taffy carrying a delicate green apple flavor.
Course 14: “Paint”
The grand finale, this course featured an elegant 4-5 minute show with the theme of “tea time,” featuring lavender, Earl Grey, and tarragon. Once again, Chef Achatz pulled out all the stops. It included a sandwich, bites of pastries, multi-flavored sauces, nitrogen-infused powder that changed color when warmed, and a nitrogen cream concoction that shattered when broken into. The staff came in and removed floating black panels of art from the ceiling that served as the plate for our dessert. It defied description, looking unlike anything one might expect to eat. Chef Achatz himself put on a show at our table. The end result was a work of street art reminiscent of the concept of “space art.” It was incredible as the fusion of tea time into this modern approach is the essence of Alinea.
It is challenging to judge, score, and critique Alinea, as Chef Achatz bends and breaks all the conventional rules of fine dining, Michelin caliber or otherwise. The usual quibbles are overshadowed by art, genius, and creativity that overwhelm your sight, touch, taste, and hearing. There were moments where tonight’s offerings felt slightly out of sync with the service, particularly at the beginning, and a few flavor combinations that did not work. Regardless, the show continues to dazzle and assault the senses in sensational ways. Transcendent offerings like the communal table, caviar, root beer float, paint, hot potato, blancmange, explosion, king crab and yellow mellow, and bubblegum dominated this evening’s tastings.
Alinea encapsulates more than just a fine dining restaurant; it is the epitome of the culinary arts. It’s an exploration into the unknown, where the impossible becomes possible. Alinea and Chef Achatz force you to embrace the discomfort of change and challenge your perception of reality through food. The exceptional service provided by Rizz, Matteau, Rebecca, and, of course, the absolutely delightful Rosabella enhances the culinary journey. Alinea means beginning, and in the case of Chef Achatz and the endless possibilities he brings, there is no end.
Atmosphere: 20/20; Multi sensory experience with Alinea achieving a diversity of atmospheres.
Service: 20/20; Chef Atchaz, Rebecca, Matteau, Rosabella, and the team continue to offer a unique approach to service.
Food: 55/60; Transport yourself to endless possibilities
Overall: 95/100; Fly into outer space, float away and discover the impossible becomes possible.
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