Doctor Kustom- Brazilian (Chef's Table) Tulsa, OK
Final Score:
97
/100
Pièce de Résistance
Two generations of family deliver a Michelin quality culinary journey through Brazilian culture.
Final Score:
97
/100
Pièce de Résistance
James Beard semifinalist, Chef Alexandre Figueira of Doctor Kustom’s has firmly established his culinary prowess in Tulsa, Oklahoma, delivering Brazilian cuisine of unparalleled quality. Nestled within the hustle and bustle of Mother Road Market, Doctor Kustom’s has garnered acclaim, with its signature picanha sandwich attaining legendary status, potentially claiming the title of the finest sandwich in Tulsa, Oklahoma, maybe the entire Southwest?
Behind the culinary magic of Doctor Kustom lies Chef Figueira, alongside his wife, Gislaine, and daughter Duda. While hundreds flock to Mother Road Market to savor Chef Figueira’s delectable offerings, including the famed picanha sandwich and Brazilian pastries known as pastéis, an exceptional experience awaits those privy to a lesser-known gem: the Chef’s Table.
A chef’s table transcends the conventional dining experience, offering patrons an intimate seat within the heart of the kitchen. Once every month, Chef Figueira and his family invite guests on a culinary journey, immersing them in their world of gastronomic artistry. Spread across five meticulously crafted dishes, two generations of culinary talent intertwine, weaving a narrative rich in culture, family, and the essence of Brazilian cuisine. With the stage set and anticipation mounting, let us embark on a culinary odyssey where every dish tells a story. Let’s eat.
The atmosphere for the dinner is utterly immersive, with guests seated within the bustling workstations of Doctor Kustom’s kitchen. The layout is nothing short of breathtaking for a foodie, offering a panoramic view of the industrial kitchen, open flames, and the captivating sights, scents, and sounds of culinary mastery in action. Here, amidst the rhythmic melody of a lively kitchen, Chef Figueria, alongside his wife and daughter, orchestrates a symphony of flavors, meticulously crafting each dish in real time.
This is not merely a dinner; it is a transformative experience where the creation of the meal itself takes center stage. Unlike the conventional “dinner and a show,” here, the culinary journey unfolds before your eyes, with every slice, sear, and sizzle becoming part of the immersive spectacle. The setting, raw and engaging, offers a rare glimpse into the inner workings of Chef Figueria’s culinary universe, where passion and craftsmanship converge.
Through this approach, Chef Figueria invites guests not just to dine but to be enveloped in the very heart of his kitchen, forging a connection between food, culture, and community.
Critiquing the service at Doctor Kustom’s Chef’s Table presents a unique challenge, given the intimate setting and hands-on involvement of Chef Figueria, Gislaine, and Duda, who gracefully juggle multiple tasks throughout the evening. As they seamlessly navigate the demands of cooking, plating, and engaging with guests in real time, it becomes evident that their primary focus lies in delivering an exceptional culinary experience.
Despite the intricacies of their duties, Chef Figueria, Gislainei, and his daughter Duda excel in skillfully articulating the inspiration behind each dish and weaving a welcoming narrative that transports diners to the vibrant streets of Brazil. Indeed, the theme of the evening pays homage to Brazil, with the story becoming an integral part of the service itself.
In considering the service objectively, one minor observation arises: there were instances where our water glasses could have been replenished more promptly. However, this minor quibble pales in comparison to the immersive experience provided, where service seamlessly intertwines with the preparation of food and the captivating narrative that unfolds throughout the evening.
Course 1: “Wagyu, Caviar, Polenta”
For the first dish, we were presented with Fried Polenta adorned with wagyu, truffle aioli, and hackleback caviar—a truly exquisite offering. With each bite, a symphony of flavors unfolds, beginning with the rich and succulent wagyu, seamlessly transitioning to the tangy aioli infused with garlic notes from the polenta, and culminating in the vibrant, salty brininess of the hackleback caviar. Here, the flavors of the sea harmoniously collide with the robust essence of the land. Complementing this delightful flavor profile is a masterful contrast of textures, as the crispy exterior of the polenta yields to the tender, melt-in-your-mouth goodness of the wagyu. Truly, a dish that tantalizes the palate and delights the senses in equal measure.
For the second course, we are presented with grilled shrimp nestled within a stuffed pumpkin, accompanied by Brazilian cream cheese and crispy rice paper. Subtle sweetness from the pumpkin greets the taste buds initially, gracefully transitioning to the delicate creaminess of the Brazilian cream cheese intertwined with the succulent essence of the shrimp. As each spoonful unfolds, nuanced undertones of squash and garlic emerge, further enriching the culinary experience. The shrimp, cooked to perfection, exudes a hint of citrus, adding a refreshing zest to the ensemble. This unexpected marriage of shrimp and pumpkin defies convention, yet proves to be a match made in culinary heaven.
Course 2: “Duck with Tucupi”
The second course presents Duck with “Tucupi” sauce, accompanied by a ground banana crumble. The duck, smoked and prepared sous vide, boasts a delicate texture and flavor profile, with subtle hints of smoke lingering enticingly at the conclusion of each bite. The duck is smoked and cooked sous vide. The execution of the duck is flawless, attesting to the culinary skill on display.
Central to the dish is the Tucupi sauce, an intriguing component with a flavor profile unlike any other. Derived from cassava, this sauce offers a distinctive taste reminiscent of mustard, with pronounced tanginess and a subtle bitterness. When paired with the duck, the resulting flavor combination is nothing short of stunning—an exquisite harmony of savory and tangy notes that tantalize the palate.
The banana crumble further elevates each bite, introducing an additional layer of flavor and texture that harmonizes beautifully with the duck and Tucupi sauce. Together, these elements converge to create a culinary symphony that delights the senses and leaves a lasting impression. Truly, a dish that exemplifies innovation and culinary artistry at its finest.
Course 3: “60 Day Dry Aged Ribeye”
Amidst the complexity and ethereal experiences of the preceding courses, Chef Figueria delivers a crescendo of flavors with the third course: a 60-day dry-aged ribeye, accompanied by cassava mousseline, acai coulis, grilled mushrooms, “aroeira” seeds, and black truffles. This dish transcends the ordinary, presenting a unique flavor profile that captivates the senses in ways previously unexplored.
The ribeye, cooked to perfection, offers a sumptuous indulgence with each bite, enveloping the palate in a decadent symphony of unctuous beef flavor. The addition of the sweet and otherworldly acai coulis enhances the sensory experience, elevating the dish to new heights. Notably, the “aroeira” seeds, delicate pink peppercorns, contribute floral endnotes that dance gracefully upon the taste buds, further enriching the culinary journey.
The cassava mousseline and grilled mushrooms with truffle impart a texture and flavor that defy description—each mouthful a revelation unto itself. Here, the marriage of flavors is nothing short of divine, with each component offering exquisite nuances that harmonize effortlessly with one another. Indeed, every bite is a journey of discovery, unveiling new dimensions of flavor and texture that linger long after the plate is cleared.
Chef Figueria provided an additional tantalizing bite. A sliver of the ribeye featuring his chimichurri sauce. This combination simply put, is one of the best bites I have had in the last full year.
Course 4: “Cupuaçu”
The final course unveils a dessert showcasing the distinctly Brazilian fruit Cupuaçu, masterfully transformed by Chef Figueira’s daughter, Duda. This innovative creation is a revelation—a symphony of flavors that redefine the boundaries of culinary artistry.
Duda’s creation introduces me to a new flavor profile, one characterized by the subtle acidity of Cupuaçu. On one side of the plate, the fruit is metamorphosed into a refreshing ice cream, while on the other, it emerges as a delicate mousse. The accompanying components, featuring hints of chocolate and caramel, offer a delightful contrast, despite the absence of traditional ingredients.
With each spoonful, I embark on a journey into uncharted territory, where the palate-cleansing ice cream paves the way for subsequent bites of wonder. It’s a testament to Duda’s ingenuity and talent that, at just 18 years old, she has crafted a dessert that rivals those found in Michelin-starred establishments. Indeed, this dish defies expectations, challenging notions of where culinary excellence can be found. To encounter such creativity and skill in the heart of a Tulsa food court is a testament to the remarkable talent within the kitchen of Doctor Kustom’s.
As I drive home from the unforgettable culinary experience at Doctor Kustom’s, my mind drifts to some of the most remarkable dining adventures I’ve had in recent years. Memories of exquisite offerings from culinary luminaries such as Lisa Becklund of the Living Kitchen, Chef David Uygur of Lucia, and Jeff Chanchaleune of Ma Der Lao Kitchen flood my thoughts. What Chef Figueira offered this evening elicits thoughts of comparisons to those culinary titans.
Reflecting on the evening’s dining journey orchestrated by Chef Figueira, I am struck by its parity with these esteemed chefs in terms of creativity, flavors, textures, execution, and overall experience. Witnessing two generations of family collaborating to craft such an extraordinary culinary affair is truly awe-inspiring, particularly as the theme of family permeates every aspect of the experience, infusing each dish with a palpable sense of love and connection.
In hindsight, one standout moment remains etched in my memory: Duda’s dessert. It dawns on me that within the unassuming confines of Tulsa, a culinary prodigy may be on the rise. The realization that a burgeoning culinary genius is emerging, rooted in family traditions and heritage, fills me with excitement for the future of food in our community.
The next generation of chefs, exemplified by Duda’s talent and passion, holds the potential to elevate culinary artistry to new heights, ushering in a renaissance of flavors and experiences that transcend boundaries and captivate the senses. As I navigate the roads homeward, I am filled with a sense of anticipation and gratitude for having been part of such a remarkable culinary journey. I will go back to the Chef’s Table in November and I would encourage anyone to join me as we venture into the unknown and in the meantime, I would encourage all to stop by Doctor Kustoms to experience something new with his sandwich and much more.
Service: 17/20; The experience is the service. One single thing to touch up on.
Atmosphere: 20/20; A completely immersive experience.
Food: 60/60; Each bite is excellent with perfect execution and incredible flavor profiles to form one cohesive narrative that works in perfect harmony from beginning to end in.
Overall: 97/100; A journey of family through Brazilian culture executed at Michelin quality level.
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